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The Briar Review(704) 362-5187
two coastlines, one request, and the drive nobody counts first

two coastlines, one request, and the drive nobody counts first

Connemara or Donegal: two ways to reach the wild Irish west

Connemara or Donegal is usually asked as a question about scenery, and scenery is the one thing that will not settle it. The drive, the bed count and the calendar will.

Both requests arrive at this desk written almost identically. Someone wants stone walls, empty road, Atlantic on the left, a village with two pubs and a shop, and no coach parks. Connemara or Donegal will both give you every item on that list, which is exactly why the question comes to us instead of resolving itself. The scenery argument has no loser in it.

What the request nearly always leaves out is the arrival. People book the flight first, then choose the coast, and the flight is what decides how much of the coast they will actually see. Two of these choices sit a short drive from an airport that takes transatlantic arrivals. One of them does not.

The second omission is the number of nights. A request for seven nights on the west coast means something different in each place, because the two coastlines are not the same size and the roads across them do not move at the same speed.

The two halves, set on the same axes

connemara

Shannon or Galway puts you at your base in about 90 minutes, against roughly 3 hours 30 minutes of driving from the nearest comparable airport to the Donegal coast; the walking is short and steep, with Diamond Hill at 1,463 feet and Benbaun at 2,395 feet reached from parking lots less than 5 miles away; the whole region fits inside a 45 mile square, so no day needs more than about an hour of driving each way; from $2,180 per person for seven nights, which is roughly a fifth above what the same seven nights in the far northwest cost us to assemble this season.

from $2,180 per person

donegal

Dublin to the Donegal coast is about 4 hours by road against about 3 hours for Connemara, and Knock cuts it to roughly 2 hours 15 against about 1 hour 30; Slieve League's cliff face stands at 1,972 feet against roughly 700 feet on the Connemara coast; Donegal's whole coastline holds a fraction of Connemara's guesthouse stock, so July and August close early and shoulder weeks stay open; the floor here is $2,260 against a lower entry in Connemara, and the difference is fuel, mileage and a thinner supply of beds.

from $2,260 per person

Two figures set beside each other are two facts about two different trips of different lengths, run by different companies, in different seasons. Neither figure is offered as the better value and this office will not say that one is. What each covers is listed on its own page.

The drive is the whole argument

From Dublin Airport, Clifden in Connemara is about two hours forty minutes of motorway then regional road, roughly 180 miles. From Shannon Airport it is closer to ninety minutes and about 75 miles, and Shannon takes direct flights from several US cities. Galway city sits at the eastern gate of Connemara, so the last hour of the drive is already scenery rather than approach.

Donegal town is four to four and a half hours from Dublin Airport, about 145 miles, and the last two hours are single carriageway with towns on the road. If your destination is Glencolumbkille or the Fanad peninsula, add ninety minutes to two hours again. Belfast International is closer on paper, roughly two and a half hours to Donegal town, and it crosses an international border with different currency on each side, which is worth knowing before it surprises you at a fuel pump.

Put plainly: a party landing at Shannon on a morning flight can be walking on a Connemara beach before lunch. A party landing at Dublin and driving to northwest Donegal is spending most of a day on the road, and most parties want that day back at the end of the week rather than at the start.

two coastlines, one request, and the drive nobody counts first

What the drive does not settle

connemaradonegal
Driving time from Dublin Airport
about 2 hours 40 minutes to Clifden, mostly motorway
Driving time from Dublin Airport
4 to 4.5 hours to Donegal town, more to the northern peninsulas
Nearest airport with US flights
Shannon, about 90 minutes and 75 miles away
Nearest airport with US flights
Dublin, the same 4 hour drive; Belfast International crosses a border
Places to stay
dense; Clifden, Roundstone, Letterfrack, Oughterard and Leenane all hold multiple properties within a 40 minute radius
Places to stay
thinner and further apart; a 60 to 90 minute gap between clusters is normal in the northwest
Height of the coast
mostly low and indented, with beaches at road level and the Twelve Bens rising inland behind them
Height of the coast
Slieve League falls close to 1,970 feet straight into the water, among the highest sea cliffs in Europe
How many other people
busy from June to August, particularly the Sky Road and Kylemore area; midweek in May or September thins it fast
How many other people
quiet most of the year outside the northern beaches in July; some roads carry more sheep than cars
What a week covers
most of it, comfortably, from one base with day loops of 60 to 90 minutes
What a week covers
one region of it, either the southwest around Slieve League or the north around Fanad and Malin, not both
Weather effect on plans
rain is frequent but the drives are short, so a bad morning costs an hour
Weather effect on plans
rain plus long distances means a bad morning can cost the whole day's plan
Driving conditions
narrow but well surfaced; passing places common; bogland verges soft after rain
Driving conditions
steeper gradients, more unfenced sheep, and mountain passes that close in high wind

When neither one is the answer

A third of the people who write in about this are describing something that sits somewhere else entirely, and it saves everyone a month to say so early.

They want cliffs and had heard the west has themPoints at either coast, but the Clare cliffs are a different drive again and closer to Shannon than either of these
They want to walk long distances daily without drivingPoints at a waymarked route with luggage moved between stops, not a touring base on either coast
They want one place, no car, and a village to sit inPoints at a single town with rail access, which neither of these coastlines really offers
They want to see the whole west in seven nightsPoints at cutting the map, because the driving hours above make the full sweep a car holiday rather than a coast holiday

Where this lands with you

We are not going to tell you which of these to take, and anyone who does is guessing at your calendar rather than reading it. The facts that decide it are yours: which airport your flight lands at, how many nights you have, whether you would rather drive less and see more of a smaller place or drive more and see a bigger emptier one. Write to the desk with your dates and the number of people, and we will put both trips in writing on the same sheet, with the per person figure for each, what is in it and what is not, so you can hold the two side by side and decide with the numbers in front of you.

Reserve a vacation package, or ask about both halves of a pair

This form takes requests 24/7 and there is no point in the week when it stops. Whatever arrives here is read by a human being before the end of that same working day. Pricing your dates needs two to four working days on top of that, since two separate companies have to reply before the figure can be written down.

Nowhere on this page, or any other page here, is there somewhere to type a card. Pressing send does not put your name against a bed: it begins the asking. What makes a reservation real is you reading a written figure, seeing which company issued it, and agreeing to that company’s terms. Look at the cancellation terms first.